Phoebe or Not to Be, Part II

After a few years of magical thinking, designing, cash-burning, and pivoting, the great Philo experiment is entering its next stage of growth. Herewith, my follow-up on an instantly legendary business with a case of the startups.

Once again, for the third time in her career, Philo has managed to tap into something bigger that’s happening in the culture among women of a certain age.

Lauren Sherman

January 27, 2025

There was a new Phoebe Philo delivery last week. It’s hard to tell how well the line is selling overall for various reasons—it’s a private company, it’s incredibly expensive, you can’t find it on discount, etcetera. But from a design perspective, I’d argue the collections are only getting better. The brain fog that clouded the first season has cleared. For instance, the silhouette of the new, “classic” jean—a straight, squared-off shape with a mid-rise and elongated leg—is exactly right for right now.