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A Man for Alaïa Seasons

The fabulous Guggenheim show was a testament to Pieter Mulier’s slow, steady, post-founder re-creation of Alaïa. Both Mulier and Alaïa are just what the industry needs right now… so hopefully he doesn’t bolt for Chanel.

Pieter Mulier
Pieter Mulier is special: It was sacrilegious to change the house of Alaïa, and yet he did just that, and convinced everyone else it was a good idea. Photo: Tristan Fewings/Getty Images for The Woolmark Company
Lauren Sherman
September 9, 2024

I wasn’t expecting Friday night’s Alaïa show to be as much of a moment as it ended up becoming. Maybe because the venue—Frank Lloyd Wright’s singular, spiraling Guggenheim—wasn’t revealed until that very morning, deftly undercutting the expectations game. Maybe it’s because most fashion shows can’t reverberate in a fractured culture, and because social media has drained the whole medium of its energy and meaning. (A simple fact, not a loaded opinion.)