As I’ve written before, the business of celebrity styling is entirely unregulated, proliferating a culture of favor-trading that results in some fairly shady business dealings. Stylists primarily get paid three ways: by the talent, by the studio, or by the brand. The problem right now is that no one really wants to pay them—at least not enough to cover the high-margin and low-justifiability expenses associated with putting together just one look.

It’s a strange time for the styling industry. The competition between streamers like Netflix and traditional studios such as Paramount have created more jobs than ever for stylists through the sheer volume of shows being released (pre-writers’ strike, anyway). There’s also been an exponential increase in requests for “glam”—hair, makeup and styling—from both on-screen talent and behind-the-scenes executives looking for an assist with public appearances. These days, everyone is their own personal brand. But as demand has gone up, so has supply. Fifteen years after Rachel Zoe made the career viable to millions of starstruck teenagers in the aughts, there are enough people calling themselves “celebrity stylists” to fill multiple representation agencies.