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The Jacquemus-Givenchy Elephant in the Room

Simon Porte Jacquemus, whose namesake line is a global sensation and generated more than $200 million in 2022.
Simon Porte Jacquemus, whose namesake line is a global sensation and generated more than $200 million in 2022. Photo: Marco M. Mantovani/Getty Images
Lauren Sherman
April 24, 2023

I’ve heard that we should be expecting an announcement soon regarding the future of LVMH-owned Givenchy, whose current designer, Matthew M. Williams, has had a tough time. A lot of people are lukewarm on him: retailers, editors, and consumers, even as the product and styling (shoutout Carine Roitfeld) have improved. Williams was appealing to LVMH, in part, because of the company he kept: he was in the Kanye West/Virgil Abloh circle, and his own line, 1017 Alyx 9sm—yes, it sounds like a bomb or a paint swatch—was more than merch at a time when merch was the thing. Williams was early to tap into the trend of late 1990s, early 2000s fashion nostalgia. Once upon a time, I asked him backstage at a show why he was using seat belts as belts, and he mentioned roller coasters… that’s all I remember.