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Paris Fashion Week Existentialism

This season, Jonathan Anderson’s philosophy became clearer than ever—fashion brands can only succeed in the modern market if their designs can justify their own existence. Easier said than done, of course.

Chanel Womenswear Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show paris runway
Nothing really mattered until Chanel. Call me hyperbolic, but Matthieu Blazy is changing the fashion game, from the silhouette to the materials to the way we think about getting dressed each day. Photo: tephane Cardinale - Corbis/Corbis/Getty Images
Lauren Sherman
March 9, 2026

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Less than a week ago, Jonathan Anderson made a definitive yet overdue state-of-the-fashion-industry declaration: Repetition doesn’t sell anymore. Brands must deliver clothes that justify their own existence. What’s the why? At Dior, Anderson is wending his way on this path. At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello knows his raison d’être almost too well. Throughout Paris Fashion Week, after last season’s avalanche of debuts, designers have been searching for their own answers. Some have introduced compelling propositions, resulting in the best clothes we’ve seen in a long time. Many others, however, are still searching for a rationale.