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A couple of weeks ago, I was sitting at a plush banquet in the new Sotheby’s restaurant, Marcel, speaking to proprietor Robin Alesch as the project barreled toward last night’s opening. Alesch was explaining how she grew up a classic New York City kid, the only child of cosmopolitan parents who took her to the city’s great restaurants like the Russian Tea Room and Tavern on the Green. “We went to the Four Seasons and Windows on the World,” she reminisced. “But I don’t think we ever made it to Maxwell’s Plum.”