Hi, and welcome back to Line Sheet. It was a big week in the world of activewear. On Monday,
Outdoor Voices initiated a relaunch, with founder Ty Haney back in charge. On Tuesday, Gap Inc.–owned Athleta announced Maggie Gauger, a longtime Nike executive, as its new C.E.O. In other, late-breaking news, I bought a pair of shorts and a top (don’t call it a set) from
Vuori. I remain a skeptic, but it’s clear the company has changed up its merchandising approach—the colors are better, and the silhouettes are less odd… at least in some cases.
Anyway, you’ll love Sarah Shapiro’s assessment of the Outdoor Voices situation. She also looks at the pluses and minuses of early viral brand exposure for The Devil Wears Prada 2, and has an intriguing update from the world of lab-grown diamonds. Plus, the latest store openings and collaborations, including the unexpected pairing of Colorado’s finest ugly shoe (Crocs) and Paris’s most famous enfant terrible (Jean Paul Gaultier).
Mentioned in this issue: Ty Haney, Outdoor Voices, Maggie Gauger, Alo Yoga, Old Navy, Madonna’s cone bra, Anne Hathaway, Staud, and many more…
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| Sarah Shapiro
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Three Things You Should Know…
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- ’Til death…: The lab-grown
diamond industry is having a moment, largely thanks to Gen Z and Millennial couples. Ring Concierge told me that sales for lab-grown diamonds have steadily increased during the past few years, but growth really picked up in 2025. What’s more, the average size has also increased at Ring Concierge, with weights jumping from 3 to 3.5 carats over the past year, and customers spending $11,000 on average for their diamond-simulant engagement rings.
Their findings were backed up by a
survey published by The Knot, which found that more than half of couples had decided to set their engagement rings with a lab-grown stone. Apparently, this is having a cascading effect across the industry: The average amount spent on engagement rings overall has gradually dropped from $6,000, in 2021, to $5,200 this year. Meanwhile, other brands are
bringing playful designs and some edginess to the category, including Dara Kaye and Aflalo x Leandra Medine Cohen. - “By all means, move at a glacial pace…”: The Devil Wears Prada 2 doesn’t come out until next spring, but the movie has already received around
$10 million in earned media, according to Brighter Path, an entertainment strategy consulting firm. TikToks referencing the movie have been viewed more than 300 million times, and often fixate on the fashion, including Anne Hathaway’s $7,900 multicolored linen Gabriela Hearst
dress. And yet, with a release date so far in the future, viral exposure can cut both ways for brands.
Sure, Dior’s D-Journey bag and outfits from Valentino, Chanel, Jacquemus, and Sacai have received plenty of unpaid advertising. The downside, however, is that this can lead to consumer fatigue,
wherein shoppers decide to steer clear of clothes they’ve already seen everywhere, or avoid items that make up a character’s costume. That said, certain vintage items, sourced by costume designer Molly Rogers—like the Coach briefcase carried by Hathaway’s character—may actually benefit from early exposure, even though they’re not available on the brand’s website. Coach has
plenty of time to resurrect this style ahead of the movie’s release, or to start collecting vintage pieces and do a special drop. - Store openings, collabs, launches…: LoveShackFancy’s collabmania now includes a partnership with Victoria’s Secret’s Pink, seemingly geared to the back-to-college shopping window. … Hill House Home has a store coming to Phillips Place in Charlotte, their first location in North Carolina; they also have a Chicago store planned for later this year at Plaza del Lago on the North Shore. … Staud is the latest brand on the jean scene, with a new category
launch in denim priced comparably to Frame, and potentially setting up department store and multi-brand store adjacencies. … The Gap x Béis collab officially launches today, as part of Shay Mitchell’s Béis travel line (although, aren’t most clothes travel-ready these days?); as of yesterday, the denim-inspired small suitcase had already sold out via early access. … Crocs’ latest
designer collab is with Jean Paul Gaultier, and pays homage to Gaultier details like the safety pin and Madonna’s cone bra.
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The once-beloved O.G. activewear brand Outdoor Voices is returning to a market oversaturated
with its successors—competitors like Vuori, Beyond Yoga, and Lululemon, all trying to figure out the next version of the all-day, here-for-it outfit.
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It wasn’t all that long ago—March 2024, in fact—that Outdoor Voices closed all of its stores and seemed on
the way to bankruptcy. Three months later, the licensing firm Consortium swept in to rescue the O.G. activewear brand from that fate. Now, as Lauren recently reported, Outdoor Voices has hired back its indisputably talented founder, Ty Haney, to help relaunch the brand that gave us the “exercise dress” and, in its early
years, made athleisure cool. But Haney, who was ousted as C.E.O. in 2020, is returning to a very different market—one that’s saturated with activewear brands that drew inspiration from O.V.’s early success.
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Indeed, Haney’s innovations—such as making a tennis dress acceptable for everything from hiking Runyon Canyon
to grabbing a matcha, or hosting classes and creating a community vibe at retail locations—are now commonplace. Leggings paired with a blazer–cardigan–button-up are everywhere. And while part of Outdoor Voices 2.0’s value proposition is offering a uniform for “doing things” that consists of more than just typical exercise pieces—they’re mixing in cotton-cashmere cardigans, for example—they’re no longer the only brand thinking this way.
Companies like Alo Yoga, Vuori, and Beyond Yoga are
chasing the same customer. Meanwhile, sales of leggings are dropping, making up just 40 percent of all activewear bottoms, according to Edited—down from nearly 50 percent three years ago. Brands are pivoting, with some of Lululemon’s latest delivery feeling more Skims-lite than sporty.
The market reality is that everyone has enough basic black leggings in their drawer. What’s
driving purchases is genuine material innovation. To wit: Outdoor Voices is rolling out bubble-wrap compression technology (we’ll see how it sells and what it feels like); Lululemon has removed the center seams from their popular Align leggings; and Vuori has tweaked their color palette, swapping the muted, greyscale colors we saw in previous deliveries for
viridian, nutmeg, a French blue, and a sunny yellow. Meanwhile, Athleta just hired a new C.E.O. from Nike,
Maggie Gauger, to reset the brand and tackle declining sales. Gauger has a tough job, given that Gap’s Athleta comp store sales were down 8 percent for Q1 2025 versus last year. Athleta’s position—with prices slightly lower than customer favorites Lululemon and Vuori, but no real differentiation in assortment—is not an enviable one.
As for the immediate future of certain athleisure brands: Alo Yoga, despite its 3.5 million-plus Instagram followers, may have missed its
window for a sale or an I.P.O. at a peak price. (Two years ago, the brand was reportedly seeking investors at a $10 billion valuation.) Meanwhile, Old Navy has become a formidable opponent in the sporty game, as highlighted during Q1 2025 earnings, which reported that their active line was the No. 5 brand in the category. After
all, having an opening price point—and the whole family under one retail roof—has its benefits.
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Has activewear peaked? Are “plastic-free” leggings and new lines of 100 percent
cotton activewear signs of innovation, or desperation? Even the “tech pants” favored by frequent-flying Silicon Valley bros are looking kind of icky these days.
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On changing tastes: “I’ve been ruminating lately on whether luxury handbags/It bags/logo bags are
going to be considered relics of a prior generation by Gen Z and Gen Alpha—similar to how hats fell out of fashion at the end of the 1950s, as Bill Cunningham wrote about in his memoir. Suddenly the younger generation decided that hats were out, and that was that. Based on what Gens Z and Alpha are spending their money on now, it doesn’t seem like they’re going to grow up to buy luxury handbags. Not that the handbag industry is going to collapse overnight, but we may be at the
beginning of the end.” —A lawyer
On the possibility of Architectural Digest’s Amy Astley moving over to Vogue: “Amy is the only person at Condé Nast who actually has celeb friends and uses them well for her magazine.” —A former Condé person
On the power of Claire’s: “There was a Claire’s in a mall somewhere in Fairfield County, Connecticut, that had a sign in the window that said, ‘Ears pierced while you wait.’ As
if you had a choice—Actually, I’ll leave my ears here, get an Orange Julius, and come back. This remains my favorite sign ever. It would be sad to see the chain go.” —A senior publicist
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Have a great weekend, Lauren
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