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Aug 1, 2025

Line Sheet
NuORDER
Lauren Sherman Lauren Sherman

Hi, and welcome back to Line Sheet. It was a big week in the world of activewear. On Monday, Outdoor Voices initiated a relaunch, with founder Ty Haney back in charge. On Tuesday, Gap Inc.–owned Athleta announced Maggie Gauger, a longtime Nike executive, as its new C.E.O. In other, late-breaking news, I bought a pair of shorts and a top (don’t call it a set) from Vuori. I remain a skeptic, but it’s clear the company has changed up its merchandising approach—the colors are better, and the silhouettes are less odd… at least in some cases.

Anyway, you’ll love Sarah Shapiro’s assessment of the Outdoor Voices situation. She also looks at the pluses and minuses of early viral brand exposure for The Devil Wears Prada 2, and has an intriguing update from the world of lab-grown diamonds. Plus, the latest store openings and collaborations, including the unexpected pairing of Colorado’s finest ugly shoe (Crocs) and Paris’s most famous enfant terrible (Jean Paul Gaultier).

Mentioned in this issue: Ty Haney, Outdoor Voices, Maggie Gauger, Alo Yoga, Old Navy, Madonna’s cone bra, Anne Hathaway, Staud, and many more…

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Spoiler alert: it’s not more DTC or marketplace whiplash. It’s ruthless efficiency, low-risk wholesale, and smarter supply chains. 

 

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Sarah Shapiro Sarah Shapiro
 

Three Things You Should Know…

  • ’Til death…: The lab-grown diamond industry is having a moment, largely thanks to Gen Z and Millennial couples. Ring Concierge told me that sales for lab-grown diamonds have steadily increased during the past few years, but growth really picked up in 2025. What’s more, the average size has also increased at Ring Concierge, with weights jumping from 3 to 3.5 carats over the past year, and customers spending $11,000 on average for their diamond-simulant engagement rings.

    Their findings were backed up by a survey published by The Knot, which found that more than half of couples had decided to set their engagement rings with a lab-grown stone. Apparently, this is having a cascading effect across the industry: The average amount spent on engagement rings overall has gradually dropped from $6,000, in 2021, to $5,200 this year. Meanwhile, other brands are bringing playful designs and some edginess to the category, including Dara Kaye and Aflalo x Leandra Medine Cohen.
  • “By all means, move at a glacial pace…”: The Devil Wears Prada 2 doesn’t come out until next spring, but the movie has already received around $10 million in earned media, according to Brighter Path, an entertainment strategy consulting firm. TikToks referencing the movie have been viewed more than 300 million times, and often fixate on the fashion, including Anne Hathaway’s $7,900 multicolored linen Gabriela Hearst dress. And yet, with a release date so far in the future, viral exposure can cut both ways for brands.

    Sure, Dior’s D-Journey bag and outfits from Valentino, Chanel, Jacquemus, and Sacai have received plenty of unpaid advertising. The downside, however, is that this can lead to consumer fatigue, wherein shoppers decide to steer clear of clothes they’ve already seen everywhere, or avoid items that make up a character’s costume. That said, certain vintage items, sourced by costume designer Molly Rogers—like the Coach briefcase carried by Hathaway’s character—may actually benefit from early exposure, even though they’re not available on the brand’s website. Coach has plenty of time to resurrect this style ahead of the movie’s release, or to start collecting vintage pieces and do a special drop.
  • Store openings, collabs, launches…: LoveShackFancy’s collabmania now includes a partnership with Victoria’s Secret’s Pink, seemingly geared to the back-to-college shopping window. … Hill House Home has a store coming to Phillips Place in Charlotte, their first location in North Carolina; they also have a Chicago store planned for later this year at Plaza del Lago on the North Shore. … Staud is the latest brand on the jean scene, with a new category launch in denim priced comparably to Frame, and potentially setting up department store and multi-brand store adjacencies. … The Gap x Béis collab officially launches today, as part of Shay Mitchell’s Béis travel line (although, aren’t most clothes travel-ready these days?); as of yesterday, the denim-inspired small suitcase had already sold out via early access. … Crocs’ latest designer collab is with Jean Paul Gaultier, and pays homage to Gaultier details like the safety pin and Madonna’s cone bra.

And now, the main event…

The Week in Shopping: Has Activewear Peaked?

The Week in Shopping: Has Activewear Peaked?

The once-beloved O.G. activewear brand Outdoor Voices is returning to a market oversaturated with its successors—competitors like Vuori, Beyond Yoga, and Lululemon, all trying to figure out the next version of the all-day, here-for-it outfit.

Sarah Shapiro Sarah Shapiro

It wasn’t all that long ago—March 2024, in fact—that Outdoor Voices closed all of its stores and seemed on the way to bankruptcy. Three months later, the licensing firm Consortium swept in to rescue the O.G. activewear brand from that fate. Now, as Lauren recently reported, Outdoor Voices has hired back its indisputably talented founder, Ty Haney, to help relaunch the brand that gave us the “exercise dress” and, in its early years, made athleisure cool. But Haney, who was ousted as C.E.O. in 2020, is returning to a very different market—one that’s saturated with activewear brands that drew inspiration from O.V.’s early success.

A MESSAGE FROM OUR SPONSOR

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There’s a reason the industry doesn’t publish wholesale reports often: it’s nuanced, behind the scenes, and not particularly sexy. But we do it anyway because we care about how brands actually thrive.

 

Our latest B2B  report contains data we gathered from 100+ real brands. From choosing retail partners to ditching digital tools they barely use, brands are being ruthless about wholesale efficiency and control. 

 

Get your free copy.

Indeed, Haney’s innovations—such as making a tennis dress acceptable for everything from hiking Runyon Canyon to grabbing a matcha, or hosting classes and creating a community vibe at retail locations—are now commonplace. Leggings paired with a blazer–cardigan–button-up are everywhere. And while part of Outdoor Voices 2.0’s value proposition is offering a uniform for “doing things” that consists of more than just typical exercise pieces—they’re mixing in cotton-cashmere cardigans, for example—they’re no longer the only brand thinking this way.

Companies like Alo Yoga, Vuori, and Beyond Yoga are chasing the same customer. Meanwhile, sales of leggings are dropping, making up just 40 percent of all activewear bottoms, according to Edited—down from nearly 50 percent three years ago. Brands are pivoting, with some of Lululemon’s latest delivery feeling more Skims-lite than sporty.

The market reality is that everyone has enough basic black leggings in their drawer. What’s driving purchases is genuine material innovation. To wit: Outdoor Voices is rolling out bubble-wrap compression technology (we’ll see how it sells and what it feels like); Lululemon has removed the center seams from their popular Align leggings; and Vuori has tweaked their color palette, swapping the muted, greyscale colors we saw in previous deliveries for viridian, nutmeg, a French blue, and a sunny yellow. Meanwhile, Athleta just hired a new C.E.O. from Nike, Maggie Gauger, to reset the brand and tackle declining sales. Gauger has a tough job, given that Gap’s Athleta comp store sales were down 8 percent for Q1 2025 versus last year. Athleta’s position—with prices slightly lower than customer favorites Lululemon and Vuori, but no real differentiation in assortment—is not an enviable one.

As for the immediate future of certain athleisure brands: Alo Yoga, despite its 3.5 million-plus Instagram followers, may have missed its window for a sale or an I.P.O. at a peak price. (Two years ago, the brand was reportedly seeking investors at a $10 billion valuation.) Meanwhile, Old Navy has become a formidable opponent in the sporty game, as highlighted during Q1 2025 earnings, which reported that their active line was the No. 5 brand in the category. After all, having an opening price point—and the whole family under one retail roof—has its benefits.

NuORDER
NuORDER

Has activewear peaked? Are “plastic-free” leggings and new lines of 100 percent cotton activewear signs of innovation, or desperation? Even the “tech pants” favored by frequent-flying Silicon Valley bros are looking kind of icky these days.

 

The Week in Feedback…

On changing tastes: “I’ve been ruminating lately on whether luxury handbags/It bags/logo bags are going to be considered relics of a prior generation by Gen Z and Gen Alpha—similar to how hats fell out of fashion at the end of the 1950s, as Bill Cunningham wrote about in his memoir. Suddenly the younger generation decided that hats were out, and that was that. Based on what Gens Z and Alpha are spending their money on now, it doesn’t seem like they’re going to grow up to buy luxury handbags. Not that the handbag industry is going to collapse overnight, but we may be at the beginning of the end.” —A lawyer

On the possibility of Architectural Digest’s Amy Astley moving over to Vogue: “Amy is the only person at Condé Nast who actually has celeb friends and uses them well for her magazine.” —A former Condé person

On the power of Claire’s: “There was a Claire’s in a mall somewhere in Fairfield County, Connecticut, that had a sign in the window that said, ‘Ears pierced while you wait.’ As if you had a choice—Actually, I’ll leave my ears here, get an Orange Julius, and come back. This remains my favorite sign ever. It would be sad to see the chain go.” —A senior publicist

 

Have a great weekend,
Lauren

P.S.: We use affiliate links because we are a business. We may make a couple bucks off them.

Fashion People

Puck fashion correspondent Lauren Sherman and a rotating cast of industry insiders take you deep behind the scenes of this multitrillion-dollar biz, from creative director switcheroos to M&A drama, D.T.C. downfalls, and magazine mishaps. Fashion People is an extension of Line Sheet, Lauren’s private email for Puck, where she tracks what’s happening beyond the press releases in fashion, beauty, and media. New episodes publish every Tuesday and Friday.

Wall Power

Puck’s daily art market email, anchored by industry expert Marion Maneker, offers unparalleled access to the mega-auctions and galleries, elite buyers and sellers, and the power players who run this opaque world. Wall Power also features Julie Brener Davich, a veteran of Christie’s and Sotheby’s, who provides unique insights into how the business really works.

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