Hi, and welcome back to Line Sheet. Thanks to everyone who ventured out to Le Veau d’Or last night
for our private dinner with Swap Commerce, and thanks to Juan Pellerano-Rendón, Allie Pellerano-Rendón, and Nicole Hartwig from the Swap Commerce team for catalyzing such a fun conversation. I always say this, but it was great because great people showed up.
In today’s issue, Sarah
“SShapiro@puck.news” Shapiro is back with a dispatch from the Marin Country Mart, where Gwyneth Paltrow hosted a Gwyn trunk show at the Goop store on Wednesday. As usual, what’s happening at Jim Rosenfield’s Marts says a lot about the state of upscale retail, and Sarah has plenty of insights. Up top, Sarah’s looked into
whether Olivier Rousteing’s exit from Balmain set off increased interest on the secondhand market (you’ll be surprised) and shares a trend that made me feel so old I might have to retire.
Programming notes: As many of you already know, I’m interviewing some of the greatest costume designers to ever live next Friday, November 14, at Puck’s Stories of the Season event in Hollywood. (If you’re part of a voting body, or simply a Puck subscriber and
would like to join us, email Fritz@puck.news.)
I’m also making some other appearances earlier in the week that you might want to know about. On Tuesday, November 11, I’ll be at Diesel Books in the Brentwood Country Mart at 6:30 p.m. to chat about How to Be Well with author Amy Larocca. (The wonderful people at Capitol & Irene Neuwirth are hosting. R.S.V.P.
here.) Then, at 8 p.m. on Wednesday, November 12, I’m joining the legend Bobbi Brown onstage at the Ann and Jerry Moss Theater at New Roads School in Santa Monica to discuss her new memoir, Still Bobbi. It’s a big deal! Get your tickets here.
Mentioned
in this issue: Gwyneth Paltrow, Goop, Gwyn, Jim Rosenfield, Roger Lynch, Condé Nast, Stan Duncan, Olivier Rousteing, Balmain, Gap, the Kleveland sisters, Emily Holt, LoveShackFancy, Khaite, and many more…
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Three Things You
Should Know…
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- What
to make of the Condé layoff mutiny: Things took a frankly disturbing turn over at One World Trade Center on Wednesday when union members stormed the office of human resources head Stan Duncan and subsequently released the video; four of the employees were fired in the aftermath. Most of the people I talked to expressed frustration that the
union members went to Stan’s offices, villain or not, because the buck ultimately stops with C.E.O. Roger Lynch. Of course, there is a chance Lynch was simply not in the office. (The company went further by filing a complaint against the union.) Reps for Condé Nast and the News Guild did not immediately respond to requests for comment.
This round of layoffs hurt particularly badly, given the number of long-term senior staffers who were let go and the unshakeable
feeling that as long as Condé Nast struggles to achieve profitability, the cuts will never end.
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A MESSAGE FROM OUR SPONSOR
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| Sarah Shapiro
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- Balmain’s searchers:
Even though Olivier Rousteing’s exit from Balmain felt like a non-event in industry circles, searches for Balmain on The RealReal increased 45 percent on the day it was announced. It seems people are either curious to see what feels relevant and interesting from his legacy or considering investing in items that might have nostalgic or vintage value in time.
- The pajama game: Wearing pajama bottoms to class, a college staple for decades, has been fully co-opted by Gen Z. High-school hallways have never looked so slovenly; on the streets, teens are wearing them with baby tees. Retailers are merchandising accordingly. Pop into any Gap and you’ll see pajama pants paired with an oversize sweater. The pajama market is projected to reach $32.6
billion by 2032, with a 9.61 percent compound annual growth rate, according to Verified Market Research. (The family photo–ready holiday pajama segment alone does $1.42 billion, as noted by Growth Market Reports.)
But there are some complications to the trend. Gen Z’s embrace of pajama bottoms doesn’t seem to extend to tops. Gap’s decision to surrender floor space—and the online homepage hero image—to pajama bottoms, instead of higher-priced denim, risks squeezing revenues. Especially
when it’s easy to buy comparable versions at Target or Costco. While pajama bottoms are a higher-margin opportunity due to their easy construction and mass appeal, retailers may discover they need to sell three or four pairs at a time to match the revenue. And there’s always the risk that Gen Zers wake up one day and start dressing like actual people.
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Everything We Read
and Learned About This Week But Didn’t Have Time to Mention…
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Michelle Obama wore two of the most important looks of the Spring/Summer 2026 runway season
to launch her new book, The Look. First, a grey suit with a cropped jacket from Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel debut, and the black dress with fuchsia and yellow streamers from Jack and Lazaro’s first Loewe collection. Obama isn’t
known for wearing runway fashion, and I’d argue this is a pretty big statement from her and her stylist, Meredith Koop. Also, a major coup for both brands, especially Loewe, as it will set the tone for the rest of the season.
Oscar de la Renta hosted a dinner at Cipriani in Los Angeles on Tuesday with a bunch of Hollywood execs, including Pam Abdy (C.E.O. of Warner Bros. Motion Picture Group), Daria Cercek, Erin
Westerman, Channing Dungey, Tracey Jacobs, Blair Rich, Sarah Aubrey, Dani Gorin, Jessie Henderson… the list goes on. It’s an interesting strategy in the context of fashion’s increasing reliance on Hollywood.
Ralph Lauren crossed $2 billion in sales in its most recent quarter (up 17 percent year over year) and raised its full-year outlook by 5 to 7 percent. I would love to say
that the market went wild, but it didn’t. [Yahoo! Finance]
Tapestry earnings were Thursday. No matter how strong Coach performs, it doesn’t seem to be enough for Wall Street. [CNBC]
Tory Burch hired
McKinsey’s Joëlle Grunberg as her new president of North America. We are big fans. [BoF]
Cassandra Grey’s 240-year-old Hudson, N.Y., house might be haunted. [Vogue]
Skims
hired Dawn Vitale from Levi’s as its new chief merchandising officer. [Inbox]
I-D magazine named stylist Clare Byrne as global fashion director. [Inbox]
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A MESSAGE FROM OUR SPONSOR
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Fabiola Beracasa’s Greenwich Village town house is bonkers-gorgeous and
the reason interiors magazines must exist. [Architectural Digest]
It’s always fun to interrogate the changing meaning of words like “luxury.” [The Guardian]
The
Timothée Chalamet Vogue cover may be Anna Wintour’s last as editor-in-chief, but it’s also writer Mattie Kahn’s first. [Vogue]
Publicist Gabby Katz has launched a wedding consulting business to help rich brides seem more interesting so that they stand a chance of being
featured in Vogue. [WWD]
Casablanca opened its first store in the U.S. in Beverly Hills. [Inbox]
Khaite celebrated its L.A. store opening with a fun party at Dan Tana’s on Thursday. [Inbox]
And now, the main event…
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In many ways, Paltrow’s appearance at her Marin Country Mart trunk show fulfilled the ideal
of what Goop has always promised: the experience of shopping Paltrow’s own home. But the brand has fallen a long way from the days when it dominated the cultural conversation.
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On Wednesday, Gwyneth Paltrow boarded a Southwest Airlines plane in Santa Barbara to fly
about an hour north, where she’d be hosting a Goop trunk show at the Marin Country Mart in Larkspur. She doesn’t usually fly Southwest—in fact, this was her first time—but her initial flight had been canceled, and it was important she be on time for the trunk show where she’d be featuring her new, higher-end clothing line, Gwyn, which she debuted during New York Fashion Week. Naturally, she was wearing the merchandise—specifically the Eden
shirt, which sales associates made a point of highlighting throughout the event.
Jim Rosenfield, the almost-famous West Coast developer behind the Country Marts in Marin, Brentwood, and Montecito—which he calls “open air, unanchored villages”—was on hand to greet Paltrow. Around them, Goop staffers pressed bouquets into the hands of shoppers and directed them toward a food
spread from Goop Kitchen in San Jose, so that the scene soon resembled a roving bridal party. Others checked out the mini-spa doing facials in the back of the store, the first Goop location to offer such services.
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Photo: Courtesy of William Mackie
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As Rachel Strugatz has
reported, Paltrow’s decision to rebrand G. Label, a $20 million business that was Goop’s main growth engine, is a bit puzzling. Indeed, the Gwyn clothing on the racks still had G. Label tags, creating some confusion among Marin County’s shoppers. But Paltrow’s presence helped dispel any negative feelings. Shoppers lingered in her blonde
aura, some holding out their jewelry picks and other purchases for her to bless. It was, in many ways, the ideal representation of the retail experience that Goop has always promised: one where attendees felt like they were shopping Paltrow’s own closet and bathroom shelves.
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The one-day Paltrowpalooza yielded four times the shop’s average weekday sales, with the Gwyn ready-to-wear
collection accounting for 60 percent of those receipts, according to a source with knowledge of the situation. Store traffic for the day was up by around 350 percent. Paltrow’s appearance also dovetailed with Rosenfield’s ambition to create anti-online, winningly bougie brick-and-mortar experiences for fashion-savvy shoppers who will drop a stack of cash as they meander through the Kleveland sisters’ Dôen boutique; Emily Holt’s Hero Shop in search of Khaite jeans or Elder Statesman sweaters; or LoveShackFancy’s pop-up—soon to pop down and be replaced by London-based athleisure brand
Varley.
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Pop-ups sometimes become long-term tenants, of course. Marfa Stance, originally slated for a short-term
pop-up, is staying put in Marin Country Mart through at least March 2026 thanks to strong sales—including average unit retail of $2,500, 17 percent higher than the brand’s average, according to a source with knowledge of the business. (The quilted bomber is their top SKU.) Other new-ish tenants include the
fourth location of home store Emily Joubert, and coming soon: a Kermit Lynch wine shop—Lynch himself, of course, being a longtime Berkeley institution and feted importer among wine snobs.
Nearby lurks an empty former Bed Bath & Beyond, which was briefly rumored to become an Erewhon before Rosenfield shut down the speculation—sagely noting that a grocery store sends people rushing home to put ice cream in the freezer. He wants customers to linger, to shop, eat, and
socialize for an afternoon. So he’s splitting the space into six or seven smaller shops, maybe a few restaurants, doubling down on discovery-driven retail.
Goop makes complete sense at the Marin and Brentwood Country Marts—it’s a lifestyle brand that benefits from this sort of serendipitous discovery that’s laser-targeted at deep-pocketed shoppers who haven’t yet picked up on the skepticism that Goop evokes from fashion insiders in New York and L.A. Goop and the Gwyn label may still be
figuring out the brand’s identity, but Goop’s strength has always been in selecting unique items with a point of view. There aren’t many places where you can pick up a leather midi skirt, April Gargiulo’s Vintner’s Daughter active botanical serum, a Foundrae
necklace, and a vibrator.
Amid the wider, always-self-replenishing Gwyneth discourse, I couldn’t help but notice that this year’s Goop
Gift Guides—usually a reliable source of mockery and headlines such as “22 Things on the 2023 Goop Holiday Gift Guide That Simply Can’t Be Serious”—dropped without so much as a murmur in my feeds. No chatter, no TikToks, no “This Smells Like My Vagina” candle controversy (R.I.P. 2020). Might the soft landing be a harbinger of things to come for Goop and Gwyneth? Let’s
hope not.
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On the CFDA Awards: “I wish you had mentioned the Isabel Toledo award and Andre
Walker.” —A concerned citizen
[Ed. note: You are right; Vogue’s Nicole Phelps also did a great job presenting the award to Andre)
On the J. Press refresh: “What is the point of Jack Carlson desecrating J. Press by rehashing it as Rowing Blazers 2.0? With the effective demise of Brooks Brothers, there was a clear lane for J. Press to conquer a portion of that customer base, particularly for
shoppers who place value on country of origin, including Made in U.S.A. All it would have taken (in my opinion) would have been some paid media and a few more retail stores outside of the tri-state area. Spin up some Esquire and GQ puff pieces and have the likes of David Coggins and Michael Williams wax lyrical about the free stuff they were gifted, and then J. Press is in the same conversation as Sid Mashburn!” —A menswear
guy
On Condé Nast filing a complaint against its union for storming Stan’s office: “Condé, just make content.” —An ex-employee
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Have fun at Baby2Baby this weekend, Lauren
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