Loewe & Behold

Jonathan Anderson
The assumption in the industry is that Anderson will someday be put in charge of a part of Dior or Louis Vuitton, or maybe even take total control of one of those brands. Photo: Courtesy of Uniqlo
Lauren Sherman
June 13, 2024

Earlier this year, I heard that fashion designer Jonathan Anderson met with the powers that be at Fast Retailing, the group that owns Uniqlo, Theory, and Helmut Lang, about potentially acquiring J.W. Anderson, his namesake brand, from its current owner, LVMH. Sources on both sides—the Anderson side and the Fast Retailing side—confirmed this. Of course, meetings happen all the time, as we know. Anderson meets with Uniqlo on an almost weekly basis to discuss his various projects with them, such as his J.W. Anderson-branded capsule collection or the tennis collab he did with Roger Federer. A person close to J.W. Anderson, the company, as well as an official spokesperson, said they are happy with LVMH and that the brand is not for sale. 

The fantasy is compelling, nonetheless. J.W. Anderson is an anomaly in the current LVMH Fashion portfolio, where Anderson is the only designer left in the group designing both his own brand and a heritage brand. Anderson’s main gig, after all, is serving as creative director for the Spanish house of Loewe, which he has transformed into a billionish-dollar business since taking over in 2013. Meanwhile, J.W. Anderson, despite a successful accessories push, is just too small for a $400 billion holding company to truly nourish as anything more than a project.