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Show Business

paris fashion week undercover show
While Hollywood’s risk aversion hasn’t quite obviated independent film, it’s made them harder to finance — the same phenomenon, of course, is true with independent fashion labels. Photo: Courtesy of Undercover
Lauren Sherman
February 29, 2024

I met with a new friend earlier this week, a longtime journalist, now doing other things. We got to talking about Pharrell at Louis Vuitton, which we both think looks good, and makes sense. She compared Louis Vuitton to a Marvel franchise, an analogy I’ve made in my head many times, largely because larger-than-life comic book franchises started to take over Hollywood a couple decades ago, around the time when conglomerates began to rule fashion. And while Hollywood’s risk aversion (and the rise of the platforms) hasn’t quite obviated independent film, it’s made them harder to finance. The same phenomenon, of course, is true with independent fashion labels.

Similarly, even the biggest studios and houses aren’t always infallible.  Earlier this week, Saint Laurent and Dior, two of this era’s most successful blockbuster brands, were tested. At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri turned out the requisite fan-service collection, a range of low-slung trousers, double-breasted trenches, and straight skirts—all immaculate, some gussied up with the words “Miss Dior” scribbled across the side. Chiuri often gets obliterated by online critics for her simple takes, but the clothes are well-made, and for many years, well-sold. I suspect LVMH and Dior C.E.O. Delphine Arnault will stick with Chiuri as long as she wishes to stay. But she doesn’t strike me as a sentimental person.