Feb 6, 2026

Hi, and welcome back to Line Sheet, and congrats to Margot Robbie and stylist Andrew Mukamal on their epic red carpet collaboration for the Wuthering Heights press tour. Better than Barbie even, I’d argue. Less theme-y, more dreamy.

Bringing us back down to earth, Sarah Shapiro is here today with news of Silicon Valley’s latest “It” brand (you need to know these things, I’m sorry), and a bit on Ralph Lauren and Coach’s Goldilocks approach to pricing. Up top, a grab bag of goodies from me: I’ve got news from Paris on Coperni’s issues with their investor and Guillaume Henry’s departure from Patou, plus what Hailey Bieber’s denim of choice says about the state of that industry.

Also mentioned in this issue: Zoë Kravitz, Sébastien Meyer, Arnaud Vaillant, The Row, Meryll Rogge, British Vogue, Levi’s Orange Tab 505s, Martine Rose, Sophie Brocart, the 10th arrondissement, Andrea Linett, Old Navy, Ani Martirossian, Lucinda Chambers, Re/done, Simeon Siegel, Ralph Lauren, Ruti, and more…

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Paris’s indie-ish reckoning: On Friday morning, Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, designers of the young label Coperni, sent a joint statement noting that they wouldn’t be showing at Paris Fashion Week and that their relationship with their investor, the London-based showroom Tomorrow Ltd., had “deteriorated significantly, to the point that Coperni no longer has the means to support its development.”

As I’ve reported, Tomorrow and its accelerator program were well capitalized, but have had trouble turning brands into viable businesses. Samuel Ross, the founder of A Cold Wall, another Tomorrow-adjacent label, left. Colville, co-founded by ex-British Vogue editor Lucinda Chambers, fell off. I’ve heard rumblings that Martine Rose is disenchanted, too. It’s a shame: While fashion upstarts in Europe have more government assistance than they do in the U.S., there is little private funding. Tomorrow represented one of the only opportunities—even if the limits of those opportunities were clear pretty fast.

As noted by StyleNotCom and others, a lot of indie brands are off the Paris calendar this season. Atlein is gone now that designer Antonin Tron took over Balmain, but even more established labels like Sacai are opting out. I’m not sure if there’s a common thread—Meryll Rogge, the new Marni designer, moved to the men’s calendar; Valentino and Margiela are showing off-calendar. But you could argue that the changing of the guard at the top houses may have had residual effects on the dynamics in Paris in general. Just this morning, Guillaume Henry, the designer of LVMH-owned brand Patou, announced he was leaving the business. (According to WWD, he’s also leaving LVMH.) Patou was always a bit of an experiment: The money is in the fragrance, and Henry and his C.E.O., Sophie Brocart, were left to their own devices. (They even set up shop in a co-working space in the 10th arrondissement, startup-style.) In a statement, LVMH essentially said that they would do something different with Patou going forward. As for whether Henry is headed elsewhere? He is undoubtedly a talented commercial designer, but has not cut through, really, since his time at Carven nearly 15 years ago.
No, you will never look like Hailey Bieber in those jeans, but…: The other day, when some paparazzi photos surfaced of Zoë Kravitz and Hailey Bieber having dinner at Sushi Park in Los Angeles, the provenance of Bieber’s whole look—The Row flip-flops, a black leather jacket with a furry collar, and a pair of straight-leg, perfectly worn-in, almost-low-rise jeans—became an intense topic of conversation in my corner of Instagram.

The jeans, in particular, were of interest. Line Sheet’s very own Rachel Strugatz asked me to identify them, and I soon learned they were vintage 501s. (A little surprising, given the lowness of the rise; but on Bieber’s lithe frame, certain eras of 501s would indeed fit like that. Especially if they were a pair issued in an era when low-rise was the thing.) I also wondered if they were tailored, given the straight, squared-off silhouette. Anyway, you will never find jeans that perfect, but you can try.

I walked away with two big insights after engaging on this subject. One is that a narrower leg is coming back into favor, as is a lower rise. I’m not talking legging-level skinny, but J Brand–style cigarette. (This pair from Re/done is a modern equivalent.) The other is that the jean to beat is a vintage 501. Fashion diehards have been collecting vintage Levi’s for years (my current favorite is an Orange Tab 505 from the 1980s). Now the hobby is going mass. Online sourcing has made vintage denim easily accessible, which means makers of new jeans are going to have to try even harder to replicate the fit and feel of the original. (They’ve already been trying for years.) Those winning, at least at the moment, include Orslow and Hanover (for guys), Feel (for both), and, of course, Re/done, which launched its business selling repurposed vintage 501s.

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Sarah Shapiro

Silicon Valley barrel rolls: Silicon Valley’s latest brand to charm influencers may be Ruti, thanks to their On the Loose work pants—a barrel-legged, no-wrinkle, women’s version of the Lululemon ABC pants or Rhone Commuter pants that men in tech have been wearing for a while now. You can also think of them as a mix of Nili Lotan’s Shon pants and Vuori. As Andrea Linett posted on Substack, the pants “work in just about any situation, anywhere (especially trains, planes, and automobiles).”

While Ruti isn’t yet a major player in the industry, the pants made it on to ShopMy’s top 25 links last year, and the Palo Alto–based company just opened a store on Madison Avenue. The brick-and-mortar expansion represents Ruti’s first foray outside California after Covid’s economic impact forced them to close a SoHo storefront and some locations in Arizona and Texas. (Most of Ruti’s customers, it turns out, are in Boston and Florida.) In any event, Ruti seems to be positioning itself as an alternative Eileen Fisher for Millennial and Gen X women. According to an inside source, annual net revenue is between $40 million and $60 million.

Ruth “Ruti” Zisser, a tech executive turned fashion entrepreneur, founded Ruti in the Bay Area in 2009, and opened her first shop in Palo Alto’s Town & Country Village the following year. A decade in, she raised $6 million from Israeli firm Viola Ventures, with a plan to integrate A.I. and custom technology for sales and marketing. Last year, Zisser brought on Ani Martirossian, formerly of Old Navy and Levi’s, as the head designer. Zisser told me she attributes the brand’s recent growth to the petites business and a refinement of the barrel leg, especially for those under 5’ 4”. The denim has also become increasingly popular.

Standard affiliate marketing protocol included partnering with ShopMy and offering influencers 13 percent commissions and discount codes of 15 to 20 percent. That led to user-generated content, which Zisser can repost in Instagram ads. Whether Ruti can translate its barrel-leg breakout product, petites business, and a strong D.T.C. economics into the next expansion with a lasting multichannel business is just the next test.

And now, the main event…

The Week in Shopping: An Accessible-Luxury Field Report

Coach and Ralph Lauren recently demonstrated the micro-trend of consumers willing to pay a little more for a product that still holds some cachet. So I spoke to a range of pros about how this is all unfolding on the retail frontlines.

Sarah Shapiro

Yesterday, Lauren covered the trendlet of accessible luxury brands performing well both in stores and on Wall Street. To wit: Coach raised handbag prices and still sold more bags, and Ralph Lauren’s revenue was up 12 percent despite an average 18 percent price hike across SKUs. “Coach and Ralph Lauren have done a remarkable job at re-elevating their brands in recent years, and deserve much credit for their ability to take prices well above peers in this tariff world,” Guggenheim managing director Simeon Siegel told me. “However, it is also fair to believe they have been allowed to raise prices specifically because of the price vacuum created by the meaningful price hikes across luxury in the post-pandemic years.”

Yes, Coach and Ralph Lauren (and Toteme, Staud, and Tory Burch) have benefitted from the upselling of Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, etcetera. Coach handbags, priced at $325 and $695, and $168 Ralph Lauren quarter-zips look reasonable, but still appeal to aspirational shoppers. An executive at Bloomingdale’s confirmed this dynamic. “Brand heat and product relevance are the primary drivers,” this person said. “Social media and cultural visibility are keeping brands like Coach and Ralph Lauren highly desirable, and when the product feels new, elevated, and fashion-right, customers are less price-sensitive and more value-driven.”

The executive pointed to another shift, adding, “The styles that are working for these brands have moved toward more of a minimalist, quieter aesthetic, one that naturally feels more luxury and timeless, even at the more accessible price point.” Less logo, more understated—the downstreaming of the stealth wealth or quiet luxury trend (there are no good monikers…) that defined luxury for an age.

Elyse Winter, a stylist who works across price points, illuminated how she’s seeing the calculation play out. “I find that clients are most excited to spend on niche, smaller brands like Attersee and Róhe,” she told me. “They’re always excited about something new, and don’t have an issue spending that $500-to-$1,700 threshold.” She noted that clients are splurging on quotidian items, like handbags and shoes, rather than spending $2,000 or more on a dress or jacket. “The perfect example is The Row Gala pant versus the Colby from La Ligne. They’re both great pants. I sell both all the time,” she said. “One is more expensive and one is a more realistic price point, and some people find that more palatable.”

Until Monday,
Lauren

P.S.: We use affiliate links because we are a business. We may make a couple bucks off them.

Puck fashion correspondent Lauren Sherman and a rotating cast of industry insiders take you deep behind the scenes of this multitrillion-dollar biz, from creative director switcheroos to M&A drama, D.T.C. downfalls, and magazine mishaps. Fashion People is an extension of Line Sheet, Lauren’s private email for Puck, where she tracks what’s happening beyond the press releases in fashion, beauty, and media. New episodes publish every Tuesday and Friday.

Puck’s daily art market email, anchored by industry expert Marion Maneker, offers unparalleled access to the mega-auctions and galleries, elite buyers and sellers, and the power players who run this opaque world.

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